After 3 more days in Phnom Penh, we are sadly finished with our Cambodia section of the trip. Phnom Penh was very hot during the middle of the day and we were warned not to go out at night so we spent a lot of time in our guesthouse on the lake lounging in the hammocks, sipping beer, and exchanging stories with fellow travellers and the guesthouse staff. We again stayed with an amazing crew of Cambodians who by the end of our stay were joking about their new found aspirations of marrying a Canadian girl.
Phnom Penh wasn't all fun and games, however. We visited the killing fields and the S21 genocide museum. It was pretty shocking to see what went on, especially since I had heard little about it before visiting Cambodia. The killing fields displayed over 8000 skulls from the mass graves found at the sight. Over 18,000 people were executed at the killing fields, including children and they estimate that around 1 million people died as a result of the Kmer Rouge genocide. S21 was a torture chamber and jail that is now a museum that shows chilling pictures and painting of the victims of the genocide. During my down time I read "First They Killed My Father" by Luong Ung. Luong Ung was a child during the Kmer Rouge take over and describes her life in Cambodia. I highly recommend this book for anyone interested in more info on the topic and a good read.
We also took in the Royal Palace. It was amazing to see how extravagant it was in contrast to the poverty of the Cambodian people. Seems like the governments money could be better spent but I guess they had to live up to Angkor Wat.
We are in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam right now. I had almost forgotten how poor Cambodia was until we crossed the border. We felt like royalty on an air conditioned bus, and a smooth paved road with our tour guide singing along. The feeling continued when we checked into a room with a hot shower, fridge and a/c. The last place we were at didn't have a fridge in the whole guesthouse or even a light in the bathroom! I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Cambodia but Vietnam is a nice change too! I want to post some pics but the computers don't accept my camera so you'll just have to wait for now.
Tam Biet!
Tuesday, February 27, 2007
Thursday, February 22, 2007
Chinese New Year and Sihanoukville
After leaving Siem Riep, we arrived in Phnom Pen during Chinese New Years. We arrived at around 2 in the afternoon. Our guest house was very inviting and ordered us to sit down on a mat in the middle of the common area. We didn't know what we were getting into while we waited as the staff went to fetch something. They came back with free food and beer to celebrate the Chinese New Year. After a few beers we were swapping dance moves from Cambodian to Canadian and having a great time.
Phnom Pen definitely has a backpacker subculture. Around the lake there are many guesthouses on stilts with hammocks and laid back tunes full of backpackers relaxing. Before going to Phnom Pen we had heard a lot of bad things about it but were pleasantly surprised by the fun atmosphere when we got there.
We only stayed in Phom Pen for 1 day and then headed to Sihanoukville, a small beach town. Sihanoukville was a great place to relax. The beach was lined with restaurants and bars so our days consisted of waking up, heading to the beach to find a recliner chair. Hangin out all day, ordering drinks, food, an occasional massage and even doing some shopping from the children passing by with bracelets and sunglasses. After watching the sun set we'd go for some barbecued seafood, drinks and dancing at one of the beach side bars.
In Sihanoukville we really felt the contrast between our wealth and the poverty around us. As we sat on the beach we were hit by countless beggars, some mothers with their children, some amputees from the land mines, and some small children looking for a meal. Because everything is so cheap we were living like royalty. We got to know a lot of the Cambodian children and many could not afford school or were taking their first class at 18 years old. They were all great people despite what they may be missing. The Cambodian government has virtually no social services for children or the disabled. Very sad to see, but also makes me realise how lucky we really are in Canada!
We're back in Phnom Pen for a few more days, then straight on to Vietnam. Miss everyone!
Phnom Pen definitely has a backpacker subculture. Around the lake there are many guesthouses on stilts with hammocks and laid back tunes full of backpackers relaxing. Before going to Phnom Pen we had heard a lot of bad things about it but were pleasantly surprised by the fun atmosphere when we got there.
We only stayed in Phom Pen for 1 day and then headed to Sihanoukville, a small beach town. Sihanoukville was a great place to relax. The beach was lined with restaurants and bars so our days consisted of waking up, heading to the beach to find a recliner chair. Hangin out all day, ordering drinks, food, an occasional massage and even doing some shopping from the children passing by with bracelets and sunglasses. After watching the sun set we'd go for some barbecued seafood, drinks and dancing at one of the beach side bars.
In Sihanoukville we really felt the contrast between our wealth and the poverty around us. As we sat on the beach we were hit by countless beggars, some mothers with their children, some amputees from the land mines, and some small children looking for a meal. Because everything is so cheap we were living like royalty. We got to know a lot of the Cambodian children and many could not afford school or were taking their first class at 18 years old. They were all great people despite what they may be missing. The Cambodian government has virtually no social services for children or the disabled. Very sad to see, but also makes me realise how lucky we really are in Canada!
We're back in Phnom Pen for a few more days, then straight on to Vietnam. Miss everyone!
Thursday, February 15, 2007
Siem Reap - The Amazing and the Ugly
Since my last post we stayed 2 days in Bangkok, then travelled to Siem Reap and have spent the last 5 days here. Since we will be returning to Bangkok I will write about it later, and for now I'll fill you in on my Cambodia experience so far.
Until we hit Cambodia, Asia didn't feel too different from back home. Cambodia has been a real eye opener. Our introduction to the country involved an 16 hour bus ride that could have been done in under 12, but was extended to ensure we were tired on arriving to Siem Riep and stayed in the first hotel they brought us to. At the border we had to pay extra money to ensure we got our visa. At the hotel our bus dropped us off at we were robbed, and when we reported it to the police, it took them 3 hours or so to get them to believe we weren't making the story up.
Aside from all this, I found that Siem Reap was an amazing place to explore. We promptly hired a Tuk-tuk (carriage attached to a motorcycle) driver who became our guide for Siem Riep and the surrounding temples. He was the only one we felt we could trust during our time in Siem Riep and we grew quite fond of him and how he helped us while we were here. Poverty is all around us here. As soon as we step onto the street children come up to us with sad eyes selling post cards, books, water, or just begging for some milk. During our time on the tuk tuk we encountered a gas station that consisted of pop bottles full of fuel and a mechanic shop that consisted of an open area on the side of the road where a family sat armed with just a few tools.
Driving here is very interesting as well. Everyone drives motorcycles or bicycles as close together as they can jam them. There are almost no traffic lights or stop signs, to get across an intersection, whether driving or walking, you have to weave through the traffic. Helmets are rare. Most motos have 4 people on them, everyone in the family including babies. A little scary at first but actually the system works out okay. One day we were going too far for the tuk tuk and got to experience 3 of us on a moto. Wow, that was uncomfortable and squishy. Of course we have a few pounds on the Cambodians. All this is coupled with the many dirt roads that put dust flying all around us, at times so much that it makes it difficult to see.
Amid all this poverty are the most amazing buildings I have ever seen - The Angkor Temples. We spent three days exploring this great site. I don't think my pictures or my words can really express the mystic appeal these temples have. The most notible were
-Angkor Wat of course, towering above us with every room open to explore and beautiful carvings around the outside. Only down side was the wats of tourists pouring in from every door.
-Beng Mealea - the ruins in their natural state with huge trees and vines growing all around and through it. Visitors are able to climb over the ruins and the site is very peaceful.
-Banteay Srei - this temple is the temple of beauty or the temple of women. We were fortunate enough to be the first to arrive at this temple at dawn and to explore its amazing intricate carvings all on our own in the silent woods. Probably my favourite temple experience.
Being around these temples made me feel very at peace and reminded me of the importance of spirituality. Hopefully I can continue to learn about Budhism during the rest of my trip.
I will leave you with some pics of the temples. Tomorrow we continue our journey on to Phnom Pen.
Due to technical difficulties at the internet cafe I couldn't get all the pics I wanted to post on so hopefully I will post the rest later!
Climbing the stairs to Phnom Bakheng
Peering out of Bayon's window
Incredible detail
A tree grows up from Ta Prohm
Surrounded by beauty at Banteay Srei
Until we hit Cambodia, Asia didn't feel too different from back home. Cambodia has been a real eye opener. Our introduction to the country involved an 16 hour bus ride that could have been done in under 12, but was extended to ensure we were tired on arriving to Siem Riep and stayed in the first hotel they brought us to. At the border we had to pay extra money to ensure we got our visa. At the hotel our bus dropped us off at we were robbed, and when we reported it to the police, it took them 3 hours or so to get them to believe we weren't making the story up.
Aside from all this, I found that Siem Reap was an amazing place to explore. We promptly hired a Tuk-tuk (carriage attached to a motorcycle) driver who became our guide for Siem Riep and the surrounding temples. He was the only one we felt we could trust during our time in Siem Riep and we grew quite fond of him and how he helped us while we were here. Poverty is all around us here. As soon as we step onto the street children come up to us with sad eyes selling post cards, books, water, or just begging for some milk. During our time on the tuk tuk we encountered a gas station that consisted of pop bottles full of fuel and a mechanic shop that consisted of an open area on the side of the road where a family sat armed with just a few tools.
Driving here is very interesting as well. Everyone drives motorcycles or bicycles as close together as they can jam them. There are almost no traffic lights or stop signs, to get across an intersection, whether driving or walking, you have to weave through the traffic. Helmets are rare. Most motos have 4 people on them, everyone in the family including babies. A little scary at first but actually the system works out okay. One day we were going too far for the tuk tuk and got to experience 3 of us on a moto. Wow, that was uncomfortable and squishy. Of course we have a few pounds on the Cambodians. All this is coupled with the many dirt roads that put dust flying all around us, at times so much that it makes it difficult to see.
Amid all this poverty are the most amazing buildings I have ever seen - The Angkor Temples. We spent three days exploring this great site. I don't think my pictures or my words can really express the mystic appeal these temples have. The most notible were
-Angkor Wat of course, towering above us with every room open to explore and beautiful carvings around the outside. Only down side was the wats of tourists pouring in from every door.
-Beng Mealea - the ruins in their natural state with huge trees and vines growing all around and through it. Visitors are able to climb over the ruins and the site is very peaceful.
-Banteay Srei - this temple is the temple of beauty or the temple of women. We were fortunate enough to be the first to arrive at this temple at dawn and to explore its amazing intricate carvings all on our own in the silent woods. Probably my favourite temple experience.
Being around these temples made me feel very at peace and reminded me of the importance of spirituality. Hopefully I can continue to learn about Budhism during the rest of my trip.
I will leave you with some pics of the temples. Tomorrow we continue our journey on to Phnom Pen.
Due to technical difficulties at the internet cafe I couldn't get all the pics I wanted to post on so hopefully I will post the rest later!
Climbing the stairs to Phnom Bakheng
Peering out of Bayon's window
Incredible detail
A tree grows up from Ta Prohm
Surrounded by beauty at Banteay Srei
Friday, February 9, 2007
Ko Phi Phi - Muay Thai Kickoff!
It's been one week in Asia and finally time for my first post! It's been a smooth transition from the Americas to Asia. I arrived at the Singapore airport to hugs from Lindsay and Jared. The two of them had already had some time to figure out Singapore and made the first couple days feel like home - minus the foreign language, great high tech metro and squeaky clean roads.
Lindsay and I made our way up to Ko Phi Phi with no time to waste. The island was a perfect kick off to Thailand. Quite touristy, but the beaches were stunning, the food excellent and the night life entertaining. We took a tour on a long boat to Maya bay - the setting for the movie "The Beach". We snorkeled, hung out with some monkeys, soaked up the sun and beautiful scenery, watched the sun set and ended the trip getting tossed around by the stormy sea washing over our long boat - and even catching a couple waves in the long boat.
At night we checked off a few items on our "to do list" for Thailand. Lindsay and I got in the amateur Muay Thai kick boxing ring for a match. Luckily we were well padded and neither of us broke a nose. (although Lindsay's foot is now twice it's original size!) After our 5 minutes of fame we became the spectators for some incredible fire throwing, my favorite act being performed by a Thai boy who looked to be about 14.
There have been many things to get used to in Asia.
Long travel days - 12 hours on a crowded bus.
It's a rare surprise to find a toilet and an even more pleasing surprise to find toilet paper here. I am still trying to master the squatter.
I love the food but it's an adjustment - most places have no peanut butter, milk or fresh brewed coffee. So far my fav meals have been Pad Thai, Thai pancakes (even better than the ones back home) red curry and all the fresh fruit.
I need to start working on my bartering skills. I have trouble talking down the street vendors and taxi drivers when everything already seems so cheap.
I have found that the Thai people are all about having fun, they work incredibly hard for their money, and are great hosts for the farangs (tourists)
Here's a few pics from Ko Phi Phi
The sun sets behind a long boat
Where's Leo? (Maya Bay)
Gearing up to kick some Muay Thai butt!
Hangin with our Thai waiter
We are staying in Bangkok for a couple days before moving on to Cambodia. Stay posted for more adventures. I miss everyone and look forward to hearing updates on life where you are.
Lindsay and I made our way up to Ko Phi Phi with no time to waste. The island was a perfect kick off to Thailand. Quite touristy, but the beaches were stunning, the food excellent and the night life entertaining. We took a tour on a long boat to Maya bay - the setting for the movie "The Beach". We snorkeled, hung out with some monkeys, soaked up the sun and beautiful scenery, watched the sun set and ended the trip getting tossed around by the stormy sea washing over our long boat - and even catching a couple waves in the long boat.
At night we checked off a few items on our "to do list" for Thailand. Lindsay and I got in the amateur Muay Thai kick boxing ring for a match. Luckily we were well padded and neither of us broke a nose. (although Lindsay's foot is now twice it's original size!) After our 5 minutes of fame we became the spectators for some incredible fire throwing, my favorite act being performed by a Thai boy who looked to be about 14.
There have been many things to get used to in Asia.
Long travel days - 12 hours on a crowded bus.
It's a rare surprise to find a toilet and an even more pleasing surprise to find toilet paper here. I am still trying to master the squatter.
I love the food but it's an adjustment - most places have no peanut butter, milk or fresh brewed coffee. So far my fav meals have been Pad Thai, Thai pancakes (even better than the ones back home) red curry and all the fresh fruit.
I need to start working on my bartering skills. I have trouble talking down the street vendors and taxi drivers when everything already seems so cheap.
I have found that the Thai people are all about having fun, they work incredibly hard for their money, and are great hosts for the farangs (tourists)
Here's a few pics from Ko Phi Phi
The sun sets behind a long boat
Where's Leo? (Maya Bay)
Gearing up to kick some Muay Thai butt!
Hangin with our Thai waiter
We are staying in Bangkok for a couple days before moving on to Cambodia. Stay posted for more adventures. I miss everyone and look forward to hearing updates on life where you are.
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