Myanmar - blast to the past

We've just returned to Thailand after 2 weeks in Myanmar (Burma). It was one of the most unique experiences we've had thus far on our trip. Myanmar is probably the least developed country that we've visited and has the least influence from the Western world. On arriving to Burma it felt like we had been transported to the past. The men still wear Longys (wrap around skirts) and chew betel juice (a nut that turns your teeth a bloody red colour and as we later found out tastes like soap and gives you a rush to the head.) As it is controversial to travel to Myanmar, the Westerners who do venture there are treated like celebrities. Everyone wants to know what it's like, living in Canada, "very nice country", to stare at our white skin, and even to touch us for good luck. We were greeted with a huge friendly "Welcome to Myanmar" by each new local we passed. It was overwhelming at first, but a great feeling to meet so many friendly people. Many of the locals wanted to speak to us about their lives. The government of Myanmar is very oppressive and the people do not have basic rights. Internet and most contact with the outside world is banned. Apart from government officials and their families, most of Myanmar lives in poverty and has no opportunity for higher education or business. The boycott the Western world has put on travelling to Myanmar has further isolated the people from the rest of the world.

We started our travels in Mandalay where the water festival was still in full throttle. It was even more insane than in Chiang Mai. With our new celebrity status we couldn't walk 2 steps without getting soaked so we had no choice but to join in with the festivities!

Next we travelled to the magical town of Bagan. Bagan is littered with 4 thousand temples over a fairly small area and is absolutely amazing to see. We felt like Indiana Jones touring the area on bicycles, exploring the temples with not a soul in sight. Occasionally a few villagers would pass by with their goat or cow herd. Wow, what a neat experience.

We also had the worst bus ride of our trip so far. Because of the water festival the bus meant for tourists was full. Instead we had to take the locals bus, basically a rickety old Toyota pickup truck. There were 17 of us packed into the box of the truck with all of our luggage and probably 20 kg of rice. We were so crammed in we couldn't move and everyone was sweaty and hot. The box was covered and there were about 15 men sitting on top of it. The road was incredibly narrow and bumpy winding around mountains on a steep cliff. The lady in front of us was throwing up the whole way. Seven hours of that was quite an experience, one we hopefully don't have to repeat for a very long while.

Our next stop was the Alpine village of Kalaw. The cool air and the scent of pines was a welcome change, it almost reminded me of good old PG. Unfortunately we were set back a day by food poisoning but that didn't stop us from doing some trekking. We hiked 50 km from Kalaw to Inle lake passing breath taking scenery. The area was full of villages perched on the hills harvesting rice, green tea, chili peppers and much more. The villagers wore their traditional bright coloured clothes and were very beautiful. They didn't speak any English but always greeted us with smiles. We spent our first night sleeping in a village and were awoken in the middle of the night by a raid. Men were drumming and chanting and we had no idea what was going on. After about an hour of this the men passed with a "donation" from the village. Our next night was far more peaceful. We slept in a serene monastery atop a hill and were awoken only by the calm and beautiful chants of the monks. When we finally arrived at Inle lake our legs were aching and it was so nice to relax in the long boat and admire the many stilted houses built on the lake.

We spent a bustling day in Yangon and were on the plane back to Thailand, back to civilization. It was a sad goodbye but I won't lie, it is nice to see fellow travellers again and to have the modern luxuries Thailand offers such as Internet, Western food and VIP buses.

A lonely goat herd

Enjoying the sunrise at 6am

Visiting a hill tribe

Taking a bath
A night in a monastery

Temple views
Miles of rice paddies
Sunrise
Lady of the Long neck tribe

Streets of Yangon

Getting wet in Mandalay

Sunset at Mandalay Hill


Lunch at Viewpoint mid treck

A Lesson on Ordering in Asia

Two

Beer

Big!

Ah, success!

Glug!

Chiang Mai - "soaking" up the city

After quite a few days on the go through Laos, we finally settled down for a little over a week in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Moving from Laos to Thailand came with it's fair share of culture shock. We were no longer in small towns with countless travel agents/ restaurants that never ever had a line, where you could always walk on the street without fear of being run over and where everyone was honest and helpful. No, we were back to Thailand, in a city with over one million people, many who work in the tourism industry and would do almost anything to make an extra buck. However, after we spent a few moments missing the laid back, wide open Laos we started to get excited about the luxuries a big city has to offer.

Chiang Mai is known as the cultural capital of Thailand so we were inspired to start learning whatever we could about Thai culture. First we took a Thai cooking course and learned that we are awesome cooks! (pretty hard to mess up when they are checking the stove temp, telling you the recipe and telling you when it's done cooking) We made enough spring rolls, green curry, chili basil, pad thai, papaya salad and coconut bananas to last for the rest of the day. (I am still salivating just thinking about it!) Our next learning opportunity came with Muay Thai kickboxing. Again, the class was awesome! Our instructor was a former professional Thai boxer ad we were his only 2 students. We were already huffing and puffing after warm up, and by the end of the class we were drenched in sweat. It was a great workout, and we even got to practise in the real professional boxing ring!

After being in the city a few days we were ready to get out to the country side of Northern Thailand. We signed up for one of the many treks sold in Chiang Mai. It sounded very touristy and not very authentic but we didn't see any way around that. We only actually trekked for about 2 hours each day but had a good time anyway. We slept at a Karen village, tried snake for breakfast, found a tarantula in the middle of the forest, rode an elephant and got soaked bamboo rafting.

The last few days have been the Thai New Year -Songkran festival. It's basically a huge water fight, and anyone from cops, to monks, to tourists are all included! Our introduction to Songkran came on our ride back from the trek. We were all in the back of a pickup truck unarmed, and every time we passed by a village all the children would run to the truck and truly soak us. That's when we decided we had to get in on the action. There's a canal that borders the downtown area of Chiang Mai - perfect water supply for the fight, and that's where it really gets crazy. Hundreds of people line the canal with buckets and water guns dousing each other and the passing vehicles. People hang out in the backs of trucks with a huge tank of water and splash everyone in their site. It's true madness and a really great time! No water phobias here! I thought I was safe being near the computer and all, but even here I had a glass of water poured on me. Lindsay and I have decided we should bring the water festival back to Canada so get ready!!!

Tonight we will be leaving the comforts of Thailand for Myanmar (Burma) for 2 weeks. Many websites, including gmail and hotmail are banned there so it might be a while before you hear from me. (this time I have a legitimate excuse. ;)) Ciao!

Water Festival!!!!

Riding Asian style!

Fighting a Profesional

Lindsay's one lucky lady!

Facing the Creepy Crawlers!

Perfect mode of transport

Cooling off

Monkey'n Around

We have just emerged from a true "once in a lifetime" trip - The Gibbons Experience. The trip was designed both to save the dwindling Laos forests and the wildlife in them and to give participants a chance to glimpse the rare Gibbon monkeys. The Gibbons live 100s of feet up in the trees, so the most logical way to see the monkeys is to live up in the trees with them. Yes, we spent 3 days living in the trees like monkeys!

The tree house was truly isolated, and much of the fun came with the journey there. It began with a two day boat trip down the Mekong river. Along the way we passed elephants, water buffalo, and many isolated fishing/farming villages. Our boat stopped only to pass on goods to trade to villages along the way. We saw many forest fires, lit by the Laos people practising slash and burn farming, highlighting the need for a project like Gibbons. Apparently slash and burn is illegal but happens all over Laos and Northern Thailand.

Next, the 7 Gibbons participants -3 Canadians, 1 American, 2 Swiss and an Irishman, loaded onto a Landcruiser for the ride deep into the forest. After arriving at a village consisting of one bamboo hut we started the trek to the tree house. A two hour plus walk up hill most of the way in the blistering heat. We made one stop to play with a bear cub and monkey that the Gibbons staff had adopted when it's mother had gone missing. Soon we came to the most amazing mode of transport - the Zipline! The Ziplines are 50 to 150 meters above the forest and display views of gorgeous canyons below, and mountains off in the distance. We zipped countless times and each time was just as amazing as the last!

Finally, we arrived at the tree house which was no monkey business. At 50 meters above ground, we had 360 degree views of uninterrupted forest. The tree house was complete with running water, a bathroom, a small kitchen and mattresses with mosquito nets for bed time.
We never really knew what to expect as our guide spoke little English and would answer every question with, "Maybe yes, maybe no, I don't know" but we still managed to have a blast. We spent the days rising early to creep through the forest mission impossible style in search of the Gibbons and any other wildlife we could see. Unfortunately I didn't glimpse the Gibbon monkey. Every time our guide would point to one all that I would see was branches shaking. I guess that is the mystique that is the Gibbon monkey. We did hear the Gibbons unique sound, almost like a bird and very beautiful. Afterwards we'd hike around the forest, monkey around the tree house, play some charades, drink some beer Laos and just marvel at the great view.
All in all, a truly awesome experience, I would highly recommend it to anyone passing through Laos!

Mekong Sunset - the Journey begins

Slash and Burn farming

Monkey see!

Monkey Do!

Mission Impossible with guide Nijo

Monkey's house!

Curious George

Just hangin around the treehouse

Return of the Camera! Luang Prabang

Dinner by Candlelight

Tiger in Captivity - her mother was a victim of illegal poaching

Waterfall number 2!

On the way to the fall

Laos children alongside the Mekong

School's out!

Who's the better jungle creature?

Rice Paddies across the river in Luang Prabang

Munk bath time

The night market of Luang Prabang